It took ages to check out of the hotel, because two busloads of German wine tasters got to reception first. Never mind, I went back into the breakfast room for a second sitting.

The hotel owner kept me chatting about wind turbines, but I had to make my excuses (wouldn’t you?) and get back on the road.

By now the storm had subsided and the sun was poking out, but it was still worryingly gusty. Fears were confirmed as I battled through the first 10km to Vienna, again through exposed countryside, with only frantic windmills and rapeseed fields for company.

At least the signage had improved; I was firmly back on EuroVelo 9, which took me to the outskirts of the city. I saw no other cyclists until I got there.

To follow the official Greenways route I headed for the Marchfeldkanal, which provided a pleasant cycle path to the Danube and the northern-most part of Donauinsel (Danube Island) – a long sliver of sparse public space that stretches all the way through town.

Once I got to town and crossed the bridge, Vienna’s excellent network of cycle lanes whisked me into the centre, first past the Spittelau (surely the artsiest incinerator), then onto the the town hall (Rathaus) and then to Hofburg.

Vienna is a beautiful, vibrant city, but it was never the plan to stay there. I’ll save my partying for Budapest. However I just needed to visit the Imperial Butterfly House once again, which is always worth the effort (more videos of Vienna coming soon).

I started my escape after a spot of lunch. Bratislava is 80km away on EuroVelo 6, the route for which took me an hour to find. Once I did, it was mostly plain sailing on well-developed riverside tracks. This is the most popular section of all EuroVelo routes and there are plenty of bars and guesthouses along the sides. Most were closed though, and I could see why because, apart from a few racers, there were no other cyclists headed east. It’s still too early in the season.

In a couple of places the track turned to gravel, but soon I was winging my way along the Danube (Donau in german) on a newly-paved and dead-straight path which floats through the Donaupark nature reserve.

Despite the persistent wind, now blowing down the valley into my face, I manged to get nearly half-way to the Slovak border before calling it a day. I turned into a little town (Orth) to get some water but nothing was open. But there were guesthouses with ‘Zimmer frie‘ signs outside. So I enquired and got a nice room for 20 euro.

Walking around I found a kebab shop that was open and indulged the owner in a conversion about Brexit as I ate. Luckily, I had finished before he could move on to Trump, another subject that is just not worth it.

All-in-all a good day. I travelled at least 75km, not including time spent farting around Vienna.

I should make Bratislava before lunch tomorrow. Weather forecast says sunny 28 Celsius. I just hope the wind dies down a bit.

I had a massive breakfast, so big that I needed a lie-down afterwards 😀

There was a stiff southerly breeze out, with a storm promised around lunchtime. No time to waste, I was off.

As soon as I left Poysdorf I was climbing through open countryside, vineyards giving way to vast fields of sugar beet. Weinviertel is Austria’s largest wine growing region, but I honestly expected to see more vineyards.

The clouds looked ominous, the headwind was hitting hard, and the pace quickly became glacial. Gusts would stop me in my tracks, or knock me sideways with the extra baggage. The only respite came during a short ride through a sheltered forest towards the large town of Mistelbach.

From there it rained, and conditions were tough as I found myself back in the open, facing a gradual ascent for nearly 15 km. I pedalled-on defiantly, making slow progress.

At this stage the route signage became confusing, and I got lost in Ladendorf. Although Eurovelo 9 was marked, it took me off in a northerly direction, wind at my back. Something wasn’t right.

After 30 minutes I decided to turn around and follow the #940 instead towards Wolkersdorf, where I resolved to have a hot lunch.

No such luck. By now the storm was in full throttle and I was soaked through. Limping into the village of Unterolberndorf I found the only place open – hotel Zum Grünen Jäger – and made light work of a schnitzel while chatting with two chain-smoking policemen.

Interestingly, in the 1980’s the hotel was used as a political base by Ugandan rebels to overthrow Milton Obote. The ‘Unterolberndorf Manifesto’ served as basis for the Ugandan constitution. When one of the rebels later became president, the hotel owners were invited to his inauguration as state guests. Cool story bro!

After an hour the rain was still pelting down. So I changed plan. There’s no point in cycling into Vienna in these conditions, only to start looking for overly expensive accommodation in the dark.

Rather, I decided to make it the 10km to Wolkersdorf and find a room. From there it’s flat 15km to Vienna, which I can hit shortly after morning rush hour. The weather forecast for tomorrow is much better, though still windy. Thursday and Friday are promising to be hot and sunny. Great!

Wolkersdorf is a fairly big town, but like many I passed this week, it seems completely deserted. 7,000 people and I saw maybe 10 as I walked around, one of them a pizza shop owner who was slumped over his counter, sound asleep.

I got a cheap room in the only hotel (with a welcome sauna!) and eventually found a run-down bar that served me a decent chilli.

A tough day overall. I reckon about 65 km traveled. All things considered, that’s not bad.

After another great sleep and a roadside bike-fix I was back in the saddle.

There are no yellow signs at the junction in Hnizdo, but there is a blue Austrian track sign to follow, which soon joins up with #48.

I zoomed through the wonderfully named village of Slup before stopping in Jaraslovice to look at the baroque chateau. If I had the money…

I missed turns at Hrádek and then again at Hevlín, costing me several Kms and an unnecessary climb. When I found the trail again it was maybe 10 kilometres of deserted road going through vast, freshly planted fields. At one point it all felt very lunar. No vineyards yet!

The headwind was strong but the road was mostly flat. I made it to Nový Přerov in time to have a feed of goulash and dumplings for lunch.

Outside Nový Přerov I saw the first significant vineyards as well as signs for Eurovelo 9 which goes from the Baltic to Southern Italy. I might pass this spot again someday…

It was then steady going over dedicated cycle track, passing Brezi towards Mikulov. Though by now the wind had picked up and was proving quite a challenge, both head- and cross- gusts nearly stopped me in my tracks, even downhill!

The trail surface varied from excellent to life-threatengly treacherous. Care was needed, especially downhill, to avoid the many crater-like potholes and enormous cracks into which a wheel could easily jam. Plenty of sections with rough gravel and rocks – I can’t see a road bike surviving it. I deflated the tyres a bit at one point, which seemed to improve traction.

Soon enough Mikulov came into view, and impressive looking it was, with the castle and church looming over the town.

Though recommended, I decided not to investigate the centre but keep moving. Another day.

Despite the strengthening wind and first spots of rain, I kept my head low and got to the outskirts of Valtice well before I expected.

Also avoiding it’s town centre I swung south to finally cross the border after tickling it for two days.

Austria greeted me with a spell of dazzling sunshine and little wind, but not for long as storm clouds gathered.

Never mind, I was game to continue. Two steep climbs later, and finally with the wind at my back I sailed into Poysdorf after a jaunt through it’s surrounding vineyards.

I passed a small hotel and decided to treat myself to a room for the night. I had no problems sleeping in the woods, but I didn’t find any safe swimming spots along the way.

So a hot shower was a very welcome luxury, as was the pizza and beer I had in town.

GPS says 92 km. Who am I to argue?

Vienna tomorrow!

Easter Sunday and more perfect weather. Left early towards Vranov nad Dyji, and the tough climbs of the Podyji national park ahead.

The trip through the park took a roundabout route through the forest. There were some steep climbs on poor track surface, then a sharp relief down to the village of Lukov.

I stopped there for lunch. You know you are close to Austria when the only food on offer is wurst, in this case a scary-looking but delicious blood sausage with mustard, horseradish and typically cardboard-like Austrian bread. Eaten with a fine beer whilst the speakers blared Black Sabbath. Perfect!

Feeling recharged (also by now the laptop & phone) I set off towards the border crossing at Valtice. Ahead is 50km of flat road through the vineyards.

But Podyjí wasn’t finished with me yet. I had to veer back into the park and tackle two arduous ascents on gravel tracks before it let me go. At the top came the money shot.

Then it was a pleasant descent to Satov, passing the first vineyards, where I stopped for another bowl of garlic soup. It’s tasty stuff!

On the way out of town my gears began to act-up. In trying to realign the rear derailleur I managed to slice the fingerprint off my thumb. Ouch. After stemming the blood I headed for the next town of Chvalovice.

I passed a ‘wine street’ where locals rent cellars to store the vast quantities of wine they make. Families were sitting out front, having their Easter dinner.

The centre of town was a completely different story. There’s a huge obvious brothel, and I saw signs for four more. So the Austrians can nip across the border, dirty buggers 😁

I got some water and headed-out towards the next town, finding a hidden camping spot beside a cornfield.

Two deer danced in front of me and ran off when I went for the camera. They bark like dogs when they get spooked.

Epilogue: From my tent I am looking back across the valley to see that the Brothel is now covered in bright purple lights, with lasers coming out the top.