It took time to get here, over high mountains, against numerous bike troubles on difficult roads, and being enchanted by Kyparissi for a week. But that’s the beauty of solo bicycle touring: total flexibility and freedom in the face of the unknown.
Up early to watch the sun rising over the back of town, and without actually yet seeing it, I munched a cheese sandwich while planning the morning. Work beckons.
Armed with laptop, I jaunted over to the island bridge and ascended to the town gates. As suspected, bikes are not allowed inside, and you can understand why once you enter.
The location is indeed spectacular, and the town itself is split into a still inhabited lower section, and and upper section which is now a giant open air museum, dominated by the church of Agia Sophia perched on top.
I spent an hour just randomly walking around, happily getting lost in the narrow maze. But work was calling, so I installed myself on a rooftop cafe and dispensed with necessary tasks. Pleasant views and cute finches surrounded as I tapped-away and sipped on several freddo cappuccinos.
Of the two swimming piers I passed on the way back to the mainland, I couldn’t resist jumping off one into the deep clear water and floating there to take-in the sumptuous surroundings.
Overall I was feeling stronger and fitter than in a long time. Although recent exertions had dispensed with much of my midriff fat, it would need a lot more work. My belly’s function had now changed to a bag needed to hold the huge volumes of fluids I had to consume on the road, so a zillion more crunches would be required to regain anything close to a six-pack. Buns of steel though! 😄
Back at the apartment I finished-up the residual work for the day and educated myself on the history of Monemvasia, in advance of a proper mid-afternoon inspection. Good to see were the many maps, info boards and signposts giving visitors a good understanding of the place, in sharp contrast to the older sites up north.
Monemvasia is a Byzantine town with a rich history. Considering it’s strategic location, it has changed hands numerous times over the centuries. The Venetians held it on several occasions, flipping between local powers and the Ottomans until being finally liberated when Greece gained independence in 1821. There are 26 churches in all, mostly Byzantine, which changed function to mosques or Hamams (bathhouses) while the Ottomans were in town. Wikipedia does a much better job of explaining, but here’s a bunch of pictures:
It’s undoubtedly a stunning location, a photographer’s dream or nightmare due to the wealth of angles. Indeed there were a number of fashion shoots in progress, with pouting models and leering onlookers.
There are many extremely cute houses, workshops and tourists stores, yet quite a few empty spaces from neglected buildings that are now rubble. Some abandoned lots are for sale – for a pretty penny I’m sure – and there were significant constructon works ongoing.
However, while it is a must-visit, there’s no way l would live in the town, due to the constant streams of dour-faced Northern Europeans traipsing through your garden. Of course, I was one of these interlopers for the day, except I was definitely smiling throughout, sometimes mouth agape in awe. I visited off season and in Corona times, but it was busy enough. I don’t know if it would be so pleasant with the high season hoards. So I felt really lucky to have experienced it under the circumstances.
Early evening was spent sipping freddos on another roof terrace, soaking-up the sunset, and with the incongruous sight of two orthodox priests opposite knocking back an array of fancy cocktails. Seems like the life!
Tomorrow is an early start to bike south 40km to Pouta, and from there the ferry to Elafonisos and Simos beach, which several Greeks have recommended I visit. Adrian, who has been on his own adventures by car, is driving down for a last piss-up before heading home to Berlin. It guarantees to be a laugh.
Riding back to the apartment I couldn’t resist one last dusky dip. It was awesome.