nihilism is exhausting
So, where was I? Oh yes, Mavrovouni, a tiny village 5km south of Gytheio. I’ve decided to bed-down here for a few months, for several good reasons. Firstly, with the catastrophic government failures of managing the coronavirus ‘up north’ there’s little point in travelling there now. Besides, I can’t even enter the Czech Republic for…
Sunday morning was a lazy one, a couple of swims, and replacing both tubes on the bike which by now had two slow punctures. Lucky I had the spares! I wanted to have a proper look around Githio nearby, and had a tasty lunch there. But the town overall, despite the initial positive impressions, gets…
Sleep came easy and I was unconscious for a solid ten hours. Starting out groggy and unenthusiastic, I felt much better after a few kilometres, even without breakfast. My target for today would be Mavrovouni, 70km away, and my first stop on the Mani peninsula, the next ‘finger’ of the Peleponesse. I wasn’t going to…
Today was to be an easy one: roll off the ferry and down to Neapoli to pick up bike spares, then head north along the coast to the fishing village of Archangelos. While packing, a smiling Dutch couple approached to ask about my route. They were also touring – albeit with camper van support. We…
A good sleep-in was on the cards, let the leg muscles recover a bit. Salts also needed replacement. Late morning was a chance to really sort out the bike, clean it and generally give it a decent servicing. The back wheel seemed to have a slow puncture. I was missing a tyre lever. Removing the…
More than anywhere in Greece I have yet been, I noticed many locals cycling around near Monemvasia, which was great to see! I could take my time today as I was making a short 40km hop to catch the ferry to Elafonisos from Pouta. Emails and admin sorted, I thanked the kind owner of Kritikos…
It took time to get here, over high mountains, against numerous bike troubles on difficult roads, and being enchanted by Kyparissi for a week. But that’s the beauty of solo bicycle touring: total flexibility and freedom in the face of the unknown. Up early to watch the sun rising over the back of town, and…
It was a restless night, not with thoughts of tax woes or sorrow for leaving Kyparissi, but by strange sounds coming from the mountain. Several times I was woken and sat on the balcony for a better listen, the whole village quietly asleep below me. It was ghostly, ethereal, almost human, like a beckoning whisper…
Saturday morning continued the cyclical trend of calm sunshine followed by bursts of wind and spitting rain. The TV news carried breathless reports of the flooding elsewhere on The Peleponesse, but there was still plenty of time for a swim before the hurricane arrived. While warming myself on the hot shingle, a heavy downpour arrived…
I awoke to a gusty-but-sunny Kyparissi, clouds over Mount Parnonas, and a massive breakfast. The manager, Stella, told me that I would be the only guest that weekend, as everyone else had cancelled due to the incoming storm Ianos (Janus). Not wanting to be a nuisance, I offered to forego breakfast for the next few…
In order to go further south from Kyparissi, I would need to cycle along the mountain road to Pistamata, which is considered to be the most dangerous drive in Greece. However, Storm Ianos, brewing off the western Mediterranean coast, had strenghtened to a ‘Medicane‘ and due to hit Southern Greece over the coming days, pummeling…
Up before the sun peeked over the surrounding mountains, I was intent on getting to grips with the two punctured tubes. I had the beach almost to myself and it was eye-rubbingly gorgeous. After a swim, I was approached by an elderly couple from Innsbruck, who had just arrived in their camper. Seeing my bike…
After a really enjoyable meal at Poulithra harbour, I headed back to the campsite, intent on a good night’s sleep. But I got very little. Of the majority German caravaners, several had brought large dogs for the journey, and these spent most of the night barking. At 4am I could take no more, pulled-on my…
Based on existing maps, it seemed simply impossible to take a coast road all the way to Monemvasia, so I was steeling myself for a brutal day of sustained inland climbing in oppressive 37 degree heat. I was a little annoyed with myself to have woken late on my make-or-break day. I dropped in to…
Yesterday’s breakers had given-way to a perfectly still sea, into which I ran and blindly dived, head-first into a blacmange of giant jellyfish! Luckily they weren’t stinging today. After stretches on the beach I caught up with the Sunday news and was really saddened to see that Navid Afkari had been hanged in Iran, despite…
7am, I lept out of bed and cycled over the hill for a final swim in Nafplio, then back for a fine breakfast of Greek yoghurt, oats, honey and sweet cake with coffee. Feeling good! I had a great chat with another hotel guest, Jeannette from Breda, and it would have been nice to stay…
Today’s plan was to take the unladen bike on a circuit of the hills, to include Tyrins, Argos and the Archaeological site of Mycenae. The main site is temporarily closed unfortunately, but there are other interesting ruins in the area, including the Tomb of Agamemnon. He’s the guy that oversaw the sacking of Troy. All…
I was woken by a strange whizzing sound. When I peered out of the tent I was amazed to see one of the German caravaners sweating it out on an exercise bike. This made no sense to me. If you’re going to drive all that way, why not bring a real bike? There are plenty…
In order to get to my starting point, the tiny Island of Poros, I first needed to make it to the main Greek port of Piraeus, stay overnight, then hop on the early morning ferry across the Saronic Gulf. On the Paros-Piraeus leg I couldn’t help thinking that the ferries may be a prime contributor…
The Physicist Blaise Pascal wrote: “All of humanity’s problems stem from man’s inability to sit quietly in a room alone“. As much as I love living in Prague, sitting around is no longer sustainable. Solo cycling presents miniscule risk of contagion, so it’s time to re-don helmet and resume my tour. The Oracle beckons! I…
"Aufwachen, arschloch!"