nihilism is exhausting
Author: Jarlath
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Settling-in for the Winter
So, where was I? Oh yes, Mavrovouni, a tiny village 5km south of Gytheio. I’ve decided to bed-down here for a few months, for several good reasons. Firstly, with the catastrophic government failures of managing the coronavirus ‘up north’ there’s little point in travelling there now. Besides, I can’t even enter the Czech Republic for…
I’ve got Homer’s number
Sunday morning was a lazy one, a couple of swims, and replacing both tubes on the bike which by now had two slow punctures. Lucky I had the spares! I wanted to have a proper look around Githio nearby, and had a tasty lunch there. But the town overall, despite the initial positive impressions, gets…
Day 27: Skirting the Laconian Gulf
Sleep came easy and I was unconscious for a solid ten hours. Starting out groggy and unenthusiastic, I felt much better after a few kilometres, even without breakfast. My target for today would be Mavrovouni, 70km away, and my first stop on the Mani peninsula, the next ‘finger’ of the Peleponesse. I wasn’t going to…
Day 26: The road to Archangelos
Today was to be an easy one: roll off the ferry and down to Neapoli to pick up bike spares, then head north along the coast to the fishing village of Archangelos. While packing, a smiling Dutch couple approached to ask about my route. They were also touring – albeit with camper van support. We…
Simos: a real Greek tragedy
A good sleep-in was on the cards, let the leg muscles recover a bit. Salts also needed replacement. Late morning was a chance to really sort out the bike, clean it and generally give it a decent servicing. The back wheel seemed to have a slow puncture. I was missing a tyre lever. Removing the…
Day 25: Popping over to Simos Beach
More than anywhere in Greece I have yet been, I noticed many locals cycling around near Monemvasia, which was great to see! I could take my time today as I was making a short 40km hop to catch the ferry to Elafonisos from Pouta. Emails and admin sorted, I thanked the kind owner of Kritikos…
Freddos in Monemvasia
It took time to get here, over high mountains, against numerous bike troubles on difficult roads, and being enchanted by Kyparissi for a week. But that’s the beauty of solo bicycle touring: total flexibility and freedom in the face of the unknown. Up early to watch the sun rising over the back of town, and…
Day 24: Monemvasia or bust
It was a restless night, not with thoughts of tax woes or sorrow for leaving Kyparissi, but by strange sounds coming from the mountain. Several times I was woken and sat on the balcony for a better listen, the whole village quietly asleep below me. It was ghostly, ethereal, almost human, like a beckoning whisper…
Over the damp squib
Saturday morning continued the cyclical trend of calm sunshine followed by bursts of wind and spitting rain. The TV news carried breathless reports of the flooding elsewhere on The Peleponesse, but there was still plenty of time for a swim before the hurricane arrived. While warming myself on the hot shingle, a heavy downpour arrived…
Waiting for Janus
I awoke to a gusty-but-sunny Kyparissi, clouds over Mount Parnonas, and a massive breakfast. The manager, Stella, told me that I would be the only guest that weekend, as everyone else had cancelled due to the incoming storm Ianos (Janus). Not wanting to be a nuisance, I offered to forego breakfast for the next few…
An easy decision
In order to go further south from Kyparissi, I would need to cycle along the mountain road to Pistamata, which is considered to be the most dangerous drive in Greece. However, Storm Ianos, brewing off the western Mediterranean coast, had strenghtened to a ‘Medicane‘ and due to hit Southern Greece over the coming days, pummeling…
Day 23: Kyparissi
Up before the sun peeked over the surrounding mountains, I was intent on getting to grips with the two punctured tubes. I had the beach almost to myself and it was eye-rubbingly gorgeous. After a swim, I was approached by an elderly couple from Innsbruck, who had just arrived in their camper. Seeing my bike…
Day 22: Maybe Fokianos
After a really enjoyable meal at Poulithra harbour, I headed back to the campsite, intent on a good night’s sleep. But I got very little. Of the majority German caravaners, several had brought large dogs for the journey, and these spent most of the night barking. At 4am I could take no more, pulled-on my…
Day 21: The mountains beckon, but don’t entice
Based on existing maps, it seemed simply impossible to take a coast road all the way to Monemvasia, so I was steeling myself for a brutal day of sustained inland climbing in oppressive 37 degree heat. I was a little annoyed with myself to have woken late on my make-or-break day. I dropped in to…
Day 20: Towards Monemvasia
Yesterday’s breakers had given-way to a perfectly still sea, into which I ran and blindly dived, head-first into a blacmange of giant jellyfish! Luckily they weren’t stinging today. After stretches on the beach I caught up with the Sunday news and was really saddened to see that Navid Afkari had been hanged in Iran, despite…
Day 19: Suspended Mycenaean loop
7am, I lept out of bed and cycled over the hill for a final swim in Nafplio, then back for a fine breakfast of Greek yoghurt, oats, honey and sweet cake with coffee. Feeling good! I had a great chat with another hotel guest, Jeannette from Breda, and it would have been nice to stay…
Lazing in Nafplio
Today’s plan was to take the unladen bike on a circuit of the hills, to include Tyrins, Argos and the Archaeological site of Mycenae. The main site is temporarily closed unfortunately, but there are other interesting ruins in the area, including the Tomb of Agamemnon. He’s the guy that oversaw the sacking of Troy. All…
Day 18: Epidaurus and Nafplio
I was woken by a strange whizzing sound. When I peered out of the tent I was amazed to see one of the German caravaners sweating it out on an exercise bike. This made no sense to me. If you’re going to drive all that way, why not bring a real bike? There are plenty…
Day 17: Hitting The Peloponnese
In order to get to my starting point, the tiny Island of Poros, I first needed to make it to the main Greek port of Piraeus, stay overnight, then hop on the early morning ferry across the Saronic Gulf. On the Paros-Piraeus leg I couldn’t help thinking that the ferries may be a prime contributor…
Greece: The un-aimed arrow never misses
The Physicist Blaise Pascal wrote: “All of humanity’s problems stem from man’s inability to sit quietly in a room alone“. As much as I love living in Prague, sitting around is no longer sustainable. Solo cycling presents miniscule risk of contagion, so it’s time to re-don helmet and resume my tour. The Oracle beckons! I…
Kicking back in the White City
When she arrived for work, I asked Ana-Marija about the name ‘Manga Hostel’ , and she confirmed that yes, she was a fan of the Japanese comic books. But broken pipes must be prioritised over art. Nevertheless, I thought it a really smart, bright, and well-run place. Ditching my bags, I took the unladen bike…
Day 16: Into Belgrade
I awoke to sunshine and stunning views of heavily-laden barges struggling upstream. After a massive breakfast, I climbed back over to Beška to rejoin EuroVelo6, passing orchards to the historic village of Novi Slankamen. Shortly after, a EuroVelo sign recommended a diversion down to the river bank. It was a steep drop on bumpy path…
Day 15: Serbian Hospitality
The rain was bucketing down on Novi Sad, so I sat outside the hostel and downed coffee while talking with a fellow guest, a Serbian merchant sailor who had spent a lot of time in Killybegs. He was finishing a bottle of gin from the night before, and was well cut, yet perfectly lucid. We…
Day 14: Survival mode to Novi Sad
I highly recommend the Long Tour Bike Camp in Sombor. Do make a point of staying there if you’re on EuroVelo6, or otherwise with a bike. You won’t be disappointed! Ivanka and Pretrag were incredibly gracious hosts, and provided lots of tips about cycling in Serbia, with detailed maps. Leaving this morning, my faith in…
Day 13: A lovely welcome to Serbia, Hvala lepo!
There was a massive thunderstorm during the night, and although I was toasty in my tent, it became covered in mud. So I spent the morning drying it while sipping coffee and electrolytes. Steering towards Mohács, there was an overall excellent riding surface on type of a dyke that went on for over 35km, and…
Day 12: To Baja, and dreams of halászlé
I woke early, said my goodbyes and skedaddled. The riverside track was in poor shape, not helped by the many speed bumps. Eurovelo6 threw up a big surpise as it funnelled me into dry muddy farm track and then…nothing. I spent an hour fighting through thick undergrowth until I intersected a paved road, blood oozing…
Day 11: Budapest to Dömsöd
The original plan was to leave on Friday so that I could make it to Belgrade in time to go 200 km further south to Vrnjačka Banja. I was to meet friends at the Love Festival. Work put paid to that ? Never mind, I left Prague, 4 days later, on the 6am train to…
Budapest to Belgrade on EuroVelo 6
Tuesday July 30th @ 5.30, train to Budapest then hop back on the road for a jaunt south along the Danube. Bring-on the halászlé!
Cycling Prague to Budapest: lessons learned
I really enjoyed my time on the road, and I’m already itching to get back out there. For sure there were some tough moments, particularly the storm in Austria, but each hill bested, each town reached, just spurred me on to the next one. I had supposed that the climbs would be the hardest challenge,…
Day 10: Counting my blessings
I made great progress across northern Hungary on another stunning day, getting to within 100 km of Budapest. Close to Komárno I received the sad news that the mother of a very dear friend has just passed away. May she Rest in Peace. So I am stopping here for now and travelling back to Ireland.…
Day 9: To Bratislava and beyond
The man of the house made me breakfast, apologising that his wife was away. He shouldn’t have. After stuffing myself with varieties of breads, cheeses, meats and coffee, as I left he handed me a packed lunch. What a host! Cycling conditions were perfect – sun blazing, a light breeze, birds singing and the road…
Day 8: Into Vienna, and out again
It took ages to check out of the hotel, because two busloads of German wine tasters got to reception first. Never mind, I went back into the breakfast room for a second sitting. The hotel owner kept me chatting about wind turbines, but I had to make my excuses (wouldn’t you?) and get back on…
Day 7: A struggle through Weinviertel
I had a massive breakfast, so big that I needed a lie-down afterwards 😀 There was a stiff southerly breeze out, with a storm promised around lunchtime. No time to waste, I was off. As soon as I left Poysdorf I was climbing through open countryside, vineyards giving way to vast fields of sugar beet.…
Day 6: Beeline to Valtice
After another great sleep and a roadside bike-fix I was back in the saddle. There are no yellow signs at the junction in Hnizdo, but there is a blue Austrian track sign to follow, which soon joins up with #48. I zoomed through the wonderfully named village of Slup before stopping in Jaraslovice to look…
Day 5: Podyjí National Park and into Moravia
Easter Sunday and more perfect weather. Left early towards Vranov nad Dyji, and the tough climbs of the Podyji national park ahead. The trip through the park took a roundabout route through the forest. There were some steep climbs on poor track surface, then a sharp relief down to the village of Lukov. I stopped…
Day 4: Tickling the Austrian border
A great day overall after a slow start. I was passing castle Landstejn and thought I would cheekily recharge my phone and laptop while sipping malenovka – raspberry lemonade that everyone drinks in summer. I had a garlic soup, then another. Good for the lungs apparently, and delicious. I got talking with an Austrian couple…
Day 3: South Bohemia
I was so comfortable that I slept-in. So much for the early start! On such a beautiful morning, it would have been wrong not to have a lazy breakfast while basking in the sun. So that’s what I did. After mounting my steed I held a steady pace over rolling countryside to Tucapy. Surprisingly I…
Day 2: Towards Tabor
I was woken at 5am by a cacophony of birdsong, which I supplemented with porridge and strong coffee. Then back on the road, still following route #11, and with some trepidation about the coming hill climbs. But I needn’t have worried, I was in Neveklov no no time, picked up some water and went to…
"Walter, you're not wrong, you're just an asshole!"