I awoke to sunshine and stunning views of heavily-laden barges struggling upstream. After a massive breakfast, I climbed back over to Beška to rejoin EuroVelo6, passing orchards to the historic village of Novi Slankamen.
Shortly after, a EuroVelo sign recommended a diversion down to the river bank. It was a steep drop on bumpy path with large muddy patches. I soon realised that I should have stayed on the road.
While scraping thick mud off the wheels I noticed a huge muscular dog watching me. I pedalled-on slowly but he stalked, eventually coming around to attack me from the side. Luckily the bike was between us, but there was a tense standoff as we snarled at each other. Squirting water only inflamed tensions.
What did work, as I had read somewhere, was to just ignore him and walk-on. Counter-intuitive, but it worked. With nothing to chase he soon got bored and went home. Next time I’ll have a water pistol loaded with Tabasco.
There was a popular fishing spot at the river bank, but no further path to follow. I checked the map and followed the river back towards the holiday village of Stari Slankomen, stopped for a coffee, then climbed back up to the main road. A time- and energy- sapping diversion maybe, but one that gave me ideas. A community app perhaps, where cyclists could provide real-time updates for fellow riders?
Once back on the road I made easy progress on steadily improving roads, meeting several tourers along the way. Most were couples and nearly all of them seemed to be bickering. About 20km from Belgrade I caught up with a Frenchman and an older guy from New Zealand who were riding together. They were like a jaded married couple. I rode with them for a while, comparing notes, but soon grew weary of their tiffs and the glacial pace. So I turned-off for a drink and left them to it. I’m happy to be alone, setting my own agenda, and with nobody to step on my buzz 😀
Close to Belgrade the heavens opened, which was a welcome wash for both me and the bike. I sailed into town on a fantastic cycle path, by now bathed in early evening sunshine, and ending-up at the church of Saint Savas.
Then off to the Manga Hostel, only a few doors up from the Serbian Chamber of Commerce, where we – EcoMole guys (hello!) – gave training courses last year. The lovely owner, Anna-Marija, welcomed me with coffee and loads of great tips for food. I expected to see manga cartoons on the wall, but there were none. I must ask her in the morning.
She knew instinctively that I had been sent by Pretrag, the owner of the awesome Long Tour Cycle camp in Sombor. I really admire that spirit of open generosity, not to mention the ease of conversation.
Looking forward to properly exploring the sights tomorrow, and getting the bike serviced. I’ll also finally know if Air Serbia will fly the boxed-up bike back to Prague on Tuesday. If not, I’ll just stay the week. My friend Marijana (local Toxicology Prof) has offered me free use of an apartment, so I can work and enjoy the city. Dinner with friends tomorrow is going to be special.