Day 5: Podyjí National Park and into Moravia

Easter Sunday and more perfect weather. Left early towards Vranov nad Dyji, and the tough climbs of the Podyji national park ahead.

The trip through the park took a roundabout route through the forest. There were some steep climbs on poor track surface, then a sharp relief down to the village of Lukov.

I stopped there for lunch. You know you are close to Austria when the only food on offer is wurst, in this case a scary-looking but delicious blood sausage with mustard, horseradish and typically cardboard-like Austrian bread. Eaten with a fine beer whilst the speakers blared Black Sabbath. Perfect!

Feeling recharged (also by now the laptop & phone) I set off towards the border crossing at Valtice. Ahead is 50km of flat road through the vineyards.

But Podyjí wasn’t finished with me yet. I had to veer back into the park and tackle two arduous ascents on gravel tracks before it let me go. At the top came the money shot.

Then it was a pleasant descent to Satov, passing the first vineyards, where I stopped for another bowl of garlic soup. It’s tasty stuff!

On the way out of town my gears began to act-up. In trying to realign the rear derailleur I managed to slice the fingerprint off my thumb. Ouch. After stemming the blood I headed for the next town of Chvalovice.

I passed a ‘wine street’ where locals rent cellars to store the vast quantities of wine they make. Families were sitting out front, having their Easter dinner.

The centre of town was a completely different story. There’s a huge obvious brothel, and I saw signs for four more. So the Austrians can nip across the border, dirty buggers ?

I got some water and headed-out towards the next town, finding a hidden camping spot beside a cornfield.

Two deer danced in front of me and ran off when I went for the camera. They bark like dogs when they get spooked.

Epilogue: From my tent I am looking back across the valley to see that the Brothel is now covered in bright purple lights, with lasers coming out the top.

"This aggression will not stand, man."