The rain was bucketing down on Novi Sad, so I sat outside the hostel and downed coffee while talking with a fellow guest, a Serbian merchant sailor who had spent a lot of time in Killybegs. He was finishing a bottle of gin from the night before, and was well cut, yet perfectly lucid.
We talked about Serbian politics, it’s overt corruption, and why he felt that the EU was acting in bad faith by supporting the current regime. Similar to Ivana and Peter last night, he bemoaned the loss of community in ‘Western’ society, and worried about loss of freedom through creeping buerocracy, and Serbia losing its soul.
I could see his points. After all, this somewhat reflects my own misgivings with modern life, which for many has now become an endless bureaucratic struggle, often involving long hours in front of a screen, where the value of face-to-face interaction is eroded. Hard work alone is no longer enough to succeed, and ruthlessness has become an admired trait. I say it’s better to be mashed by a speeding truck than to die of a heart attack sitting at a computer!
It was getting late and the rain had subsided, so I made my way towards Belgrade along EuroVelo6. The first 15km were on the main road, and included a long climb on another treacherous stretch. Here the camber was pretty brutal. It was too easy to slip off the road, but this time there was no grassy verge, only gullies of thick, sticky mud. The bike became coated, causing the disc brakes to seize-up. I cleaned-up as best as possible and headed to meet Dragana, Dusan and their bright young children, Lena and Lucas, at Restaurant Sidro, near Beska.
We spent a lovely afternoon together chatting, laughing, eating and drinking on a veranda overlooking the river. Good times!
I finally got to try Fisherman’s soup, containing huge chunks of catfish. Worth the wait, it was delicious! More fish and meats followed, rounded-off with chestnut cakes, Turkish black coffee and wine. I felt totally spoiled. We were serenaded by the house band and their version of ‘Dragana’. These boys can play!
Thank you so much Dragana and Dusan! I hope to be able to return your kindness when you visit Ireland and/or Prague! Soon hopefully x
Dusan suggested that I take a room in the adjacent pension. A great idea! I slept for an hour and went for a walk before munching the leftovers from earlier, on a balcony overlooking the Danube. A perfect end to a great day!
Belgrade tomorrow. I should be there for lunchtime. BTW, happy birthday Mina!
Epilogue: a party with live music erupted across the street. I popped-in for a beer and, without sufficient language, I opted to communicate through the medium of dance. I dare not show the pictures 😀