It took ages to check out of the hotel, because two busloads of German wine tasters got to reception first. Never mind, I went back into the breakfast room for a second sitting.
The hotel owner kept me chatting about wind turbines, but I had to make my excuses (wouldn’t you?) and get back on the road.
By now the storm had subsided and the sun was poking out, but it was still worryingly gusty. Fears were confirmed as I battled through the first 10km to Vienna, again through exposed countryside, with only frantic windmills and rapeseed fields for company.
At least the signage had improved; I was firmly back on EuroVelo 9, which took me to the outskirts of the city. I saw no other cyclists until I got there.
To follow the official Greenways route I headed for the Marchfeldkanal, which provided a pleasant cycle path to the Danube and the northern-most part of Donauinsel (Danube Island) – a long sliver of sparse public space that stretches all the way through town.
Once I got to town and crossed the bridge, Vienna’s excellent network of cycle lanes whisked me into the centre, first past the Spittelau (surely the artsiest incinerator), then onto the the town hall (Rathaus) and then to Hofburg.
Vienna is a beautiful, vibrant city, but it was never the plan to stay there. I’ll save my partying for Budapest. However I just needed to visit the Imperial Butterfly House once again, which is always worth the effort (more videos of Vienna coming soon).
I started my escape after a spot of lunch. Bratislava is 80km away on EuroVelo 6, the route for which took me an hour to find. Once I did, it was mostly plain sailing on well-developed riverside tracks. This is the most popular section of all EuroVelo routes and there are plenty of bars and guesthouses along the sides. Most were closed though, and I could see why because, apart from a few racers, there were no other cyclists headed east. It’s still too early in the season.
In a couple of places the track turned to gravel, but soon I was winging my way along the Danube (Donau in german) on a newly-paved and dead-straight path which floats through the Donaupark nature reserve.
Despite the persistent wind, now blowing down the valley into my face, I manged to get nearly half-way to the Slovak border before calling it a day. I turned into a little town (Orth) to get some water but nothing was open. But there were guesthouses with ‘Zimmer frie‘ signs outside. So I enquired and got a nice room for 20 euro.
Walking around I found a kebab shop that was open and indulged the owner in a conversion about Brexit as I ate. Luckily, I had finished before he could move on to Trump, another subject that is just not worth it.
All-in-all a good day. I travelled at least 75km, not including time spent farting around Vienna.
I should make Bratislava before lunch tomorrow. Weather forecast says sunny 28 Celsius. I just hope the wind dies down a bit.